No other producer on the Island of Madeira can boast anywhere near the number of ancient Madeiras that D'Oliveira has. This 19th-century company still has wine in barrel or demijohn dating back to 1850. But one of its most unique wines is this 1927 Bastardo, from a grape rarely seen since Phylloxera.

The D'Oliveira family owns this wine because it bought the old house of Adegas do Torreão twenty years ago. This was the crown jewel of the Torreão wines that were still in barrel. It's also one of only two examples of Bastardo from the first half of the 20th century. It is a classic old Bastardo, with power and cut on the aftertaste to balance the wine's sweetness. Though nearing its 100th birthday, this wine will live on for another half century with ease. 18/20 Jancis Robinson.