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“Classy wine, yes indeed. 6 stars.”
John Livingstone-Learmonth
From the outset, it was clear that the 2010 Hermitage vintage was one for the ages. Rhône guru John Livingstone-Learmonth called it “a majestic performance ... one of the best vintages of the past 50 years” while Josh Raynolds praised the vintage’s “stunning combination of freshness, richness and structure, the traits necessary for long aging.”
2010’s record low yields produced unusually concentrated grapes, with the potential to produce heroically rich and long-lived wines. But some lacked freshness. It required skill, experience and an understanding of what sets Hermitage apart from the other great northern Rhône Syrahs to achieve greatness.
So we look to the growers with a classic orientation, a strong track record, and holdings in Hermitage’s greatest climats, to produce true magic. And this has led us, inevitably, to the 2010 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal.
We’re not alone in our opinion that this wine is arguably the great traditionally-made 2010 Hermitage. Livingstone-Learmonth awarded it his highest 6 star rating, placing it alongside those of Chave, as Hermitage that truly made the most of this historic vintage.
Hidden Gem
Now in his mid-60s, Faurie produces Hermitages that are not well-known to casual collectors. But he’s revered by a small circle of devotees who prize his pure expressions, Livingstone-Learmonth among them, who calls Faurie a prime “soil to glass transfer” (STGT) domaine.
This is testament to the clarity of terroir expression Bernard achieves through his traditional approach in both vineyard and cellar. And Faurie’s holdings begin with Hermitage’s best: 50 to 70-year-old vines in the hill’s granite backbone, Les Bessards.
The most iconic examples of Hermitage have always been based on Bessards. Gérard Chave considers it essential: “you can’t make a Grand Hermitage without it.”
And Faurie’s marrying of Bessards with the lush fruit from the hill’s other top site, the neighboring Le Méal, echoes the blend responsible for the legendary Jaboulet La Chapelle’s brooding power.
A Traditional Master
Everything Bernard does is old-school: his vines are all old and from ancient clones, and he works them naturally, pruning in accordance with the waning moon and plowing by horse. And, he’s never used herbicides.
He crushes his grapes by foot, and the whole-cluster fermentation is with the native yeasts in wooden vats. Aging is in neutral, old demi-muids.
It all came together for Faurie in 2010—the balance and concentration bestowed by this vintage afforded him the chance to make the wine of his career, and he didn’t miss.
This is a truly great Hermitage, made by one of the last remaining giants of northern Rhône traditionalism. You will want it in your cellar.
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